Take a look at your XC bike. Chance are, it has 3 chainrings, a front derailleur, and a front shifter on it. You probably consider yourself an agressive XC or All Mountain rider right? Then why do you have all that unnecessary junk attached to your bike? I want you to consider going 1 x 9 (1 chainring up front, 9 cogs in the back). Crazy? Not in the least. Here are the real benefits you’ll get if you can put aside your preconcieved notions of both equipment and your personal abilities (you CAN do it)!!
Consider the following average weights:
XT front derailleur: 180g
XT front trigger shifter: 126g
XT 42T chainring: 83g
XT 22T chainring: 20g
Cable/Housing: 15g
A few links of chain: 15-20g (this will vary depending on how many you can remove)
Total weight: 439-444g - That’s a pound of extra junk!
Of course, you can’t just take all that stuff off and expect to have a functional bike. You need to keep the chain on.
The solution: A chainguide! Contrary to what most people think, they are not just for downhill. They provide just as much benefit to an XC or All-Mountain rider. I’m sure you’re full of questions by this point, so I’ll start off with the first one that came to your mind.
Won’t a chainguide add weight to my bike?
NO!!!! Once you ditch all that other stuff, you’ll actually SAVE weight! Take a look below!
System 3 Mini-Me Alloy: 322g - net savings of about a quarter pound
System 3 Mini-Me Party Crasher: 400g - about 50 grams lighter with HUGE gains in durability
System 3 Carbon: 215g - net savings of about a half pound! That’s a lot! 36-40T only
G2: 260g - net savings of about 1/3 pound. 36-40T only
**Note** You can drop extra 50 grams off any of the dual roller guides (besides the Carbon) by switching to our new lightweight rollers. The Carbon System 3 comes stock with the lightweight rollers.
Now that you know you can add a chainguide and not add any weight, but in fact SAVE weight, it’s a little more appealing no? Consider all the other benefits that you’ll get -
*Lighter weight
*More ground clearance
*More protection from impacts
*ELIMINATE dropped chains!
*Reduced chain slap
*Reduced chain suck
*Super quiet ride, even in the roughest terrain
*Uber clean looking bike without that extra cable/derailleur/shifter cluttering things up

Nice and clean without all that front shifter non-sense!
But what about my granny gear? Won’t I lose climbing ability without it?
No, in fact, I think you’ll find that you can actually climb things with a 32t ring that you couldn’t before. The reasons are momentum and torque.
If you’re climbing something steep and techy with a 22t ring, you’ve got 2 things working against you - slow speed and high torque. These things are combining to reduce your stability and traction.
With a 32t ring you are forced to carry more momentum into moves. This will greatly improve your chances on big, techy moves. The other thing it does is reduce your torque, which will increase your traction! No more spinning out and tipping over.
What about my big ring? Won’t I miss that?
Unless you spend a considerable amount of time riding on the road, probably not. The only thing you’ll miss about your big chainring will be the rocks that you usually hit when you still had it (and you certainly won’t miss the $80 bill at the bike shop when you have to replace it).
So what gearing do you suggest?
The most common and versatile gearing is a 32T front ring and an 11-34T rear cassette. This will give most riders plenty of range for almost any trail.
My buddy has a chainguide and it’s really noisy.
Your buddy doesn’t have an MRP then. We use a soft urathane roller (dual roller guides) and low durometer pulley wheel (G2) to keep our guides running silently. By adding one of our guides, the tension applied to the chain will make your bike so quiet that all you’ll hear are the tires on the trail. Once you experience this silent bliss, it’s hard to go back!
Is a full guide really necessary? Can’t I rig something up?
If you want your chain to stay on *some* of the time, then sure. But the reality is, a fully dedicated guide system that provides inside & outside, upper and lower, and a tensioning mechanism on the lower guide is the only way to get fool-proof performance all of the time. If you’re into stopping after that ripper downhill to put your chain back on and clean your wounds, then more power to you. But if you’re like me, I want to be absolutely SURE my chain will be there when I jam on the gas in the corner at the bottom of the hill. It only takes 1 bloody knee-to-stem incident to prove my point. Or you could just take my word for it!
Is this setup for everyone?
No. But if you’re even remotely fit, you’ll find this to be a huge upgrade and you will enjoy your riding experience much more.
If you are just starting out, you might want to hang onto that granny gear and opt for our LRP dual-ring setup instead.
In conclusion, I would like to add that I’ve been running a 1×9 on my XC bike for the past 3 years. I use the System 3 Mini-Me Party Crasher. I haven’t missed the old setup at all. In fact, it seems silly now to have all that extra mess attached to my bike.

Tricked out. System 3 Mini-Me w/ Party Crasher and lighweight rollers. Bomb-proof and only 350g!!
If you have any questions regarding setup, just shoot me an email at: rcranston@mrpbike.com
I’d be glad to help you choose the best system.
Cheers,
Ryan Cranston - MRP Product Manager